DD Hammocks: Hammock Range

There are seven reasons why we’re recommending DD Hammocks.

  • They’re a UK supplier, meaning you get UK based customer service;
  • We’ve tried the service personally, and it’s good. You get a quick response, they’re helpful and friendly;
  • The quality of their products is good and the products feature thoughtful design. We sleep in their products.
  • They’re inexpensive, and you don’t see quality compromised for price. There’s no point having a cheap hammock where midges climb through the mosquito netting, the hammocks and netting tears, or where the strapping breaks!
  • They have a wide range of accessories allowing you to spread the cost of building your ultimate hammock camping system.
  • Fast Delivery (when we purchased in the morning, we got our items next day).
  • If we recommend something, we don’t want our visitors upset. We feel confident with DD.

To see the full specification of DD’s hammocks, click on the green + buttons in the table below.



Zebra Bushcraft Billy Cans

zebra1If you’re looking for camping cookware which can handle considerable punishment, Zebra billy cans are ideal.

They come in four sizes. 10cm, 12cm, 14cm and 16cm. The 10cm and 12cm cans are ideal for one person, the 14cm for two, and the 16cm for three to four.

As you’ll see in the image, they also come with what looks like a dog bowl, which fits inside the main pot held on the rim. This allows steaming, smoking meat, cooking two layers of food or as a plate or shallow bowl.

Hang them from a tripod over a fire (the handle has a curve in the middle allowing this), pop them on a camp stove or lay them on their side and even use them as an oven to bake bread, these are versatile pots which will take years of abuse. Expect them to discolour slightly after use, but that just adds to their character.

The 14cm can is an ideal size to snugly hold a wood gas stove during transportation. Due to its height and unlike a normal pan with a standard handle, we find this more stable on a smaller stove allowing safer cooking.

What we like:

  • Solid construction;
  • The odd inner pan for steaming food;
  • Size.

What we don’t:

  • A design flaw is the plastic clips used to hold the handle upright – these melt if the pan is on a campfire. Take them off when cooking.

The issue with the clips is not enough to detract from just how good a piece of kit this is.

Some complain that the handle gets hot. Use a stick to lift the billy can when you’re ready to serve. Set it on the ground, and then use the stick, gloves or an oven glove to lift the lid. It’s not rocket science. Stainless steel gets hot! If not cooking with the lid on, you can also use an aluminium camping pan grip which are cheap to buy to handle the pot. This can also be used with the internal pan, and hey presto, you then have a mini frying pan.

In the following video a zebra billy can is used as an oven to roast a whole chicken on a small spirit burning stove. We know of people who use theirs to bake fresh bread in the morning. Please note the zebra can in the video has a minor modification, in that the plastic clips have been replaced with sprung wire.



A Beginners Guide To Hammock Camping

A Beginner’s Guide To Hammock Camping

Your equipment needn’t be expensive. We were set a challenge to build our own hammock camping rig for under £45. Not a problem and we could have done it still cheaper. It kept us dry in torrential rain, warm and we slept incredibly well. You can also buy custom camping hammock rigs and tarpaulins. Hammock camping isn’t an expensive pastime, and regardless of your budget, it’s affordable. Even those cheap chinese hammocks can hold 18stone.

DD Hammocks, a UK based manufacturer also sell custom hammock camping equipment (handling up to 20 stones). We mention them because they have good quality, affordable equipment and offer very good service. Their equipment is well designed with features which may not be apparent to inexperienced campers but are worth noting. Built in mosquito nets which stop the netting drooping on you, double layer bottoms to the hammocks for insulation (and/or storage), storage tabs inside the mosquito netting to hold a nightlight or water bottle, and suspension systems aimed at fast set up and take down. They also sell kit which is tailored to hikers who want exceptionally light weight equipment, hammocks for kids, larger tarpaulins which the family can cook under or for greater privacy at night. An alternative to DD Hammocks are ones made by Tenth Wonder which our members like too. Both manufacturers offer affordable, decent quality kit.

The great thing is you don’t have to buy all the equipment at once. Start with a tarpaulin and hammock, and then consider adding adjustable rigging (which mean you can raise or lower the hammock or adjust its lie between two trees without having to untie anything. With this and a sleeping mat to insulate your back, you’ll be set up for camping in summer months.

To extend your camping season, you can then add an under-quilt. An under-quilt is suspended under your hammock, trapping a layer of warm air. People go hammock camping in the snow using these and stay warm. One other great upgrade is a custom hammock sleeping bag or quilt. Most people will climb into their sleeping bag before sitting in the hammock and swinging their legs up and lying down. Custom hammock sleeping bags have a waterproof area around the feet, and zip up the middle. Over quilts have a similar enclosed ‘box’ for your feel, and attach around the neck and are used in conjunction with under quilts.

DD Hammocks’ beginners guide to hammock camping is a good start for anyone who wants a better understanding of setting up, equipment and sleeping positions (yes you can sleep on your side, and lay flat in a custom hammock!):

If you’re heavier than 20 stone, there are still options. Hennessy Hammocks (an American manufacturer) sell a hammock large enough for people 7′ tall and 350lbs! An alternative and cheaper option is the

Design Matters

Hammock width and length: Width is quite important, as a wider hammock gives you the option of lying at a slight angle, which flattens the hammock out and allows you to sleep on your side. The hammock has to be long enough for you to sleep comfortably.

Mosquito nets: Ideally, you want a hammock with an integral mosquito net, and one with mesh fine enough to stop midges. Aside from a cold back, nothing can ruin a night more than being eaten alive, and we live in midge country! Black mesh gives an experience of looking through sunglasses and I prefer this to green netting. Spreader bars which lift the mosquito net away from the hammock (and your face) feel roomier. Tabs inside the mosquito net give you an option of hanging a lamp (meaning there’s no need to hunt for a torch, and if you read, your light is right above your head). While you can hang a lamp from your tarpaulin ridge line, you may not be able to reach this without ‘getting out of bed’. Then you have the difficulty of readjusting your bedding after lying back down, without the benefit of a light!

Storage: While you can hang equipment from the ridge line which supports your tarpaulin, you’ll want pockets in your hammock for your car keys, phone, wallet and book/kindle. Reading in a hammock at night time is incredibly relaxing. The more pockets, the more storage. Some integral mosquito netting has tabs at each end inside, which allow a cord to be tied between them and items such as water bottles to be suspended from them. No hunting about at night for a drink!

Insulation: A double layer bottom to the hammock allows you to use a sleeping mat for insulation (even in the summer, a breeze can leave you feeling chilly unless your back has some insulation). While you can put a sleeping mat in a hammock without this bottom layer, they tend to pop out which is a pain.

Side tabs on the hammock: These are used to ensure an under-quilt (if you’ve bought one or intend to) is nice and snug underneath you. You don’t want this quilt to be compressed (by your weight) as you’ll lose some of the benefit of insulation. Neither do you want a gap as you’ll lose that trapped warm air which insulates you. They’re not essential, as you can attach an under-quilt via elastic cord to your tarpaulin ridge line.

Breathable bottoms: Some hammocks come with waterproof bottoms. It’s tempting to buy one of these to allow the hammock to be used on the ground as a bivi when camping away from trees. A word of caution though. Standard hammocks “breath” while ones with waterproof layers do not. Condensation from breathing and sweating can be a problem in hammocks with waterproof bottoms. I know several hammock campers who’ve traded in their bivi hammocks for this very reason.

Spreader bars: A few brands use spreader bars at the end of their hammocks to give the sleeper a flatter lie. While this may seem a good idea, I really don’t recommend them and wouldn’t buy one myself. These brands then use additional guy lines intended to stop the hammocks tipping over when you get in (or roll about in your sleep).

Spreader bars make hammocks unstable and remove your option of an under-quilt/blanket to insulate your back. While a sleeping mat can go inside the hammock, they slide about. Buy a hammock with gathered ends if you want a hammock you won’t slide about in or fall out of! If you want a flatter sleeping position, buy a wide hammock.

Light weight: If you’re a walker, you may want to sacrifice some of the above options to reduce carry weight. Most manufacturers offer a light or superlight range. Unless you’re camping only in the winter, do make sure you have a mosquito netting (by which we mean midge netting!) and personally, I’d still want a hammock with a double bottom to keep a sleeping mat in place! It is possible to buy detachable mosquito nets, and ones which will go over most hammocks. DD hammocks sell one.

I still don’t know what to buy!!! Well come and join our Facebook group and ask advice. You’ll find lots of experienced and helpful members as well as complete beginners. Regardless of your experience, you’ll still learn something new and they’re a friendly crowd!

Buying a hammock with these options saves you money in the long term, and gives you plenty of options to upgrade your kit which you needn’t buy straight away (or at all). All you really need is a hammock, a tarpaulin, and something to hang them from.

If you’re a serial kit collector don’t despair, you can then focus on camping knives, clothing, rucksacks, camp stoves, fire pits, cooking pots and a whole host of other things.


4m x 4m Tarpaulin/Basha – For Versatility

4m sq tarp – open fronted

First, let’s demystify the jargon… a basha is simply another term for a shelter, and is a word used for tarpaulins which have multiple tent peg/guy line attachment points. These multiple tie up/peg out points allow the tarpaulin to be used in a number of different ways. A ridge line is simply a piece of cord which your tarpaulin hangs from (usually running along the centre of the the tarpaulin to keep it off your head (and the ground!).

Most hammock campers use a 3m x 3m square tarpaulin to keep them and their hammock dry. A standard length for a hammock is 2.7m, and once you’re inside, the hammock length shortens as your hammock inevitably “sags down” once a little (or not so little) weight is inside. For light summer showers where rain is coming down vertically, a 3 metre square tarpaulin is sufficient to cover your hammock and keep you dry.

An anecdotal point… that surly faced kid in the advert on TV is wrong, the hypotenuse is useful in life! A 3m square hammock, hung like a kite on a ridge line gives you 4.24m of cover overhead. See… maths can be fun (*cough*).

So why buy a 4m x 4m tarpaulin?

Yes, there’s a hammock under there!
  • Communal space: A larger tarpaulin gives room for you, the kids and friends to sit out even if the rain’s coming down. The open fronted set up in the image above (for those who can’t get their heads around metres) using just one side for seating cover gives you 6.5ft x 13ft of communal living space (family sized!).
  • Versatility: You can set up your tarpaulin in more creative ways.
  • Communal Hammock Cover: In summer months (and trees allowing) you can hang two or three hammocks under a single tarpaulin.
  • Cope with horizontal rain: We live in Britain, and sometimes the rain is aided by wind and travels horizontally! A larger tarp keeps kit on the ground dry, while still giving you ample room to stand.
End view
  • Tent Like Insulation: If you’ve thought “if only I could close off the ends of the tarpaulin, I’d keep the drafts out!” well with a 4m x 4m tarpaulin you can!
  • Privacy: Sometimes it’s nice to change your clothes without scaring other people in the woods!

A 4m x 4m tarpaulin allows an A-Frame enclosed end set-up

With a little creativity, and a tarpaulin which has multiple guy-line/peg attachment points, you can set up a tarpaulin in more creative ways.

aframeshapecartoonIf you peg out your tarpaulin following the design in the image, you can close off the ends to make a fully enclosed tent which will still allow you to hang your hammock, and space to stand! You can now get changed in complete privacy and without having to crawl around on the ground. Not only this, if gives you a completely weatherproof and draft proof set up.

In summer months and if privacy isn’t an issue, it gives you a far larger covered area to cook, socialise or simply chill-out under. If you take your dog camping, there’s ample space to house a pup tent.

We bought ours from DD Hammocks.


  • Weight and size: For its size, it’s light weight (weighing 1.29kg). Considering it’s a ‘monster’ of a tarp, both it and my hammock still fit into the bottom compartment of my rucksack.
  • Quality: Made from polyurethane coated polyester, taped seams, and in terms of waterproofing the fabric has a 3000mm hydrostatic head (meaning a column of 3000 wouldn’t leak through). This is an excellent quality tarpaulin.
  • Number of Attachment Points: It has 19 attachment loops , loops appear stitched onto an extra layer of thin rubber and are very securely stitched on.
  • Price: Cheaper than many smaller tarps, but still of a high quality. Good value for money.
  • Fast Delivery: Ordered on Thursday morning, delivered on Friday. Delivery was also included in the price.


  • Tent pegs and guy lines: It comes with only four guy lines, and four tent pegs. Well… we had to find something to complain about!
  • Hmmm… finding trees over 4 metres apart.
  • You’ve only got three choices of colour: green, camouflage or brown. I suppose camouflage is more than one colour.
  • Struggling here… it doesn’t recharge my phone! There you go!



Well worth the investment. Would we recommend it? Well we have one, and use it, and like it. We’ve never got wet using it, and it doesn’t show any signs of wear and tear. The pictures on this page are ours. What more do you want from a tarpaulin!

Consider adding:

  • Your own tent pegs and additional guy lines.
  • A tarpaulin sleeve. DD Hammocks sell a 2.8 metre tarpaulin sleeve. While not as long as the 4m tarpaulin, they’re roomy enough so you can stuff one in! It shortens pack up time if you’re slinging your kit in the car! Leave the tarp attached to the ridge line when you pack up, and then set up next time takes a few minutes.



Make Your Own Mosquito Net

Custom camping hammocks often come with their own sewn in mosquito net, but what do you do if you want a cheaper alternative, or have an open hammock which you love? You can buy a loose one custom made for hammocks from DD hammocks or make one. One factor in term of deciding whether to make one or buy your own is the quality of material used and whether or not the mosquito netting in a shop bought mosquito net is treated. While you can spray your own net, mosquito repellent isn’t cheap, and a bottle of Jungle Juice costs close to £10.

If you’ve a sewing machine (or someone you know does and you can bribe them to do the sewing for you), making your own mosquito net isn’t hard.

You’ll find black net curtains on Amazon (most are sold per panel, so check as you’ll need a pair). Make sure they’re long enough and deep enough! You’ll want a pair, and to sew them along one length that will go over your ridge line. How long and how wide the curtains must be deep depends on how you set your hammock (and the hammock size). When you’re in your hammock it sags, and you want the material deep enough so it can be gathered underneath you with shock (elastic) cord which you will use to tighten the netting once you’re inside. So You don’t want mosquitoes flying in underneath.

You’ll need:

  • a pair of net curtains (avoid tulle, it’s too flimsy… go for sheer or plain black voile made from polyester). For size, we’d go for 54″ wide and 90″ long;
  • Fine polyester thread;
  • Ideally a size 9 to 11 ballpoint needle;
  • 5m x 4mm shock cord; (yes, we know the video says 3mm, but this stuff is only £2.85 for 5 metres, including delivery!);
  • 4mm spring loaded cord locks (for the ends of that shock cord).



Crabbing – Making Memories

Velvet Crab

Crabbing is an essential part of childhood. I remember doing it on various childhood holidays. The excitement of dangling a bit of weighted string off a jetty with a lump of pork chop and hauling up monsters (and then watching parents trying to put the in a bucket without losing their fingers) stays with you.

Brown (or Edible) Crab

We’re a little more sophisticated now and use a crab snare, although there’s a range of equipment you can use (albeit a length of string, pebble with a hole in and a bit of chicken works perfectly well!). A crab snare is small, wire metal box which you put the bait in, and attached to the box are nylon free running snares.

Whether you take the crab back home (or to the campsite) and eat it, or simply set it free, your children will have the experience of being close to nature, being away from tablets and playstations, and… well… being being kids. Crabbing is a ‘quality time’ thing to do.

Your children are unlikely to remember hours on Minecraft, but they will remember catching their first crab. Make a competition out of it. A prize for the first caught, the biggest and the most caught.

There are 65 different species of crab in the seas around the British Isles. The brown and velvet crabs are particularly common (and make a very good meal!). Brown crabs have particularly strong claws used for crushing mussel shells (so be careful… don’t say we didn’t warn you!). The crab you’re most likely to find is the shore crab (and yes they’re edible, with a sweet flavour… very popular in Spain).


Crab Net

Crabs detect things by sense of smell, so the smellier the better. Raw food such as pork, chicken or fish is ideal but do make sure the kids wash their hands before eating ice cream after they’ve been crabbing! Oily fish works well, and a piece of mackerel (or mackerel head) is good to bail cage or net traps (I never did work out how to tie a fish head onto a string). Even better if you leave the bait out for a day or so to get a bit rank and even smellier!


Take your pick…

Go Traditional: A simple length of string (or paracord) tied around a rock to weight it down (or use a large fishing weight) and then wrapped around bacon, chicken or pork chop works well. It’s how I used to catch crabs as a kid. The crabs cling on, and you haul them up from a jetty or sea wall hoping they won’t let go (they usually don’t)!

Safety Lines

Safety Rigs: For a couple of pounds, you can buy a hand reel, line, with a weight and netting bag attached to the end. Quite why they’re called safety lines escapes me, but they work well, and I always have two in the boot of the car (no comments please that it’s about time I cleaned the car out).

Crabbing Nets: These are large nets much like a bucket, which you pop bait into, drop to the sea floor, wait and then can scoop up several crabs at a time.

My Crab Snare

Crab Snares: Little seen in the UK, but popular in America (and introduced to me by Thomas), the picture is of my very own crab snare. A small, plastic coated wire cage, with free running snares attached. You’ll need to attach your own line (string or paracord is fine) and weight down the cage (pebble or a fishing weight). You can also attach these snare boxes to a fishing rod! Use a decent strength line as weighted down with three crabs, these boxes can get heavy! The secret is to slowly haul (or reel) in the line so the snares draw closed on the crab legs and claws. Be warned, removing the crab from the snare can be an adventure (yes, those claws do nip).


Pyramid Star Crab Traps: If you find the idea of dealing with snares and pincers a little scary, why not try a pyramid trap. These are clever pieces of kit where, when lowered to the sea bed, the four sides open up, allowing the crabs to scuttle to the bait. Draw the string up, and the sides close shut! No risk of losing your catch, and once you’ve hauled it up, place it on the ground, lower the cage to the ground and the sides come back open.


You may want to put the crabs back, and that’s fine. It’s a matter of choice. Personally, I’d eat them if they’re a reasonable size (whoever said there’s no such thing as a free lunch never tried one of these!).

See our article on Guilt Free Crab Killing.


Suspension Rigs: Whoopie Slings

whoopieIf you’re looking for the smallest, strongest and most light weight hanging system possible, you want whoopie slings. Whoopie slings are made from a material called Amsteel which is incredibly strong… essentially as strong as steel and far thinner and lighter than sailing rope. It’s so light in fact that it floats. For the walker/hiker who wants their kit to be light weight, it’s the best option.

Whoopie slings allow you to easily adjust their length, making sure you can set up your hammock in minutes. This rig involves no knots, meaning there’s no risk of your breaking your fingernails (or getting out your knife) when it comes to taking your hammock back down.

DD hammocks offer a complete kit, including 6ft long 2.5mm thick Amsteel whoopie slings, tree straps and carabiners for £30.95. The rig weighs only 260 grammes. DD Hammocks are a UK supplier whose equipment gets 5 star ratings.

2.5mm Amsteel has a minimum strength of 1,400lbs. A good guide for suspension ropes is that they should be able to hold 5 times your weight (to cope with the shock caused from tossing and turning and adjusting your sleeping position). For anyone under 20stone, 2.5mm Amsteel should be more than sufficient. If you’re heavier than this, don’t panic. Our O-Ring rig should do you (but make sure you research rope strength to ensure peace of mind).

Except for children, we don’t recommend you use paracord for hanging your hammocks. Paracord will stretch, and while the best quality will bear 550lbs, beware cord claiming to be authentic paracord. I’d trust paracord for my ridge line and guys lines for my tarpaulin, but not for my hammock.

The following video shows how you can attach a whoopie sling to your hammock (replacing the rope it came with). It also shows how incredibly easy it is to adjust the whoopie slings’ length.


Suspension Rigs: Double O-Rings

SDC10965This is the hanging system I use. I’m not skinny, and I can confirm that even for the more ample hammock camper, this set up is perfectly secure and is also quick to take down. Four thick metal O-rings (used in pairs) allow you to quickly hang and adjust your hammock. I tie mine directly to the tree straps rather than using a carabiner, but the principle otherwise is the same as the one set out in the Youtube video below.

To simplify matters further, I removed the short rope attached to the hammock, replacing it on each end with 5 metres of pre-stretched 6mm thick sailing rope. 5 metres is more than you’ll need in most situations, but the slack can be coiled and tied up. Sailing rope is stronger than most nylon rope which can stretch.

The O-Ring set up also acts as a water barrier (when it rains, you don’t want water running down your rope and into your hammock). A further precaution is to tie a small length of paracord to the hanging rope near the hammock end, which acts as a wick (water runs down the rope, meets the paracord, and then runs down it, dripping onto the ground rather than your neck!).

Tree straps protect the bark on the tree whereas rope or cord can cause damage.


An alternative adjustable set up uses whoopie slings. Whoopie slings offer a far more lightweight and compact alternative to O-rings and rope.


Paracord Heaven

I love paracord. Whether as a ridge line for the tarpaulin, as guy lines to stop the tarp flapping about, or a small piece hung from the hammock suspension rope to stop rainwater running down into the hammock (as a wick), it’s probably my favourite and most versatile piece of kit.

I always have 100ft of it with me when camping. It’s cheap and versatile, and can also provide entertainment. Paracord crafting is a hobby in itself, and you can make everything from bracelets to fishing line, fishing lure, hammocks to belts.

For the survivalist, inside the paracord sleeve are 7 to 9 nylon cords (depending on the quality) which can be used as snares, sewing thread or fishing line.

Paracord Bracelets

Not just a fashion accessory, paracord can be woven into a bracelet to provide a 7′ to 9′ piece of paracord (when you pull the bracelet apart) whenever you need. Add a buckle with a built in whistle, and you give your kids entertainment and a way for them to call for help if in trouble. You can even buy buckles with built in fire starter kits. There are many different designs and knots used for the weave, but the simplest (to get you started) is the cobra bracelet. Glow in the dark paracord bracelets are a great way to keep an eye on the kids at night (I use luminous paracord to hang my torch up at night… handy when it’s pitch black and you need the loo).


There are many other kinds of knots which give different styles. You can even splice together two different coloured cords to give you a two tone bracelet.


Want to make something even fancier. Try the wide dragon’s tongue design!


Fishing… no kit? Paracord to the Rescue

As we mentioned above, inside a paracord sheath are thin cords which can be used as fishing line. What about bait? If you can find worms, you can do a spot of worming. This involves attaching worms to a hook, and then a weight to keep the worms bouncing along the bottom of the stream or river. A problem most anglers will be aware of is conventional weights getting caught on the river bed, and suddenly you’re playing a tug of war game which you’re likely to lose (along with that hook and your worms). Line left in rivers isn’t a good thing for wildlife, so why not rig yourself a paracord slinky weight. The following video shows you how! This is less bulky than normal worming weights, and therefore less likely to get snagged between rocks.


What happens if you dig and can’t find worms though. You’ve got some hooks in your survival kit, but no fish is going to bit on a bare hook! Make a fly from paracord!


No hook? Well, so long as you can find a thorn bush, you can rig this up with a paracord line. Thorns were still being used as fishing hooks at the turn of the 20th Century.


No hook, no bait, no thorns… well the vultures will eat well (just joking). Make a paracord net and make a fish trap!


Paracord can be used to make fishing nets, net bags and even hammocks!


If you want a paracord hammock (we use one slung underneath a tarp to hold our equipment and keep it off the ground), while you can make one (and for the fun of it, why not), they are incredibly cheap to buy.


Make Your Own Pot Stand

You need a stable platform to put your pots on and to lift them above the flames of your camp stove. Too low and you risk snuffing out your fire, and if the pot stand is too small, your cooking set up becomes unstable (not a good thing when dealing with hot liquids). In short, you may well need a pot stand.

You can buy them if you find the idea of making one too much hard work. It’s also worth factoring in the cost of tools. One which you can buy off the shelf (which can also be used as a mini fire box to burn twigs) is the Bushbox Outdoor Pocket Stove. This packs flat and is ideal to hold Trangia or home made drink can burners.

If you want to make your kit, or simply wish to save some money, why not make your own stove and pot stand. You’ll find Youtube videos on how to make your own stove here… we promise you’ll never view cans and tins in the same light.

For pot stands, check out the videos below. Test them at home on something concrete (not the decking or the kitchen table!) before you give them a try at your camp site. If you’re trying them out with an alcohol based burner/stove, use only a small amount of flammable liquid until you’re sure the pot stand won’t warp under heat. Think safety first! Also, please remember these stoves and holders will be hot during and after use. Let them cool before handling and never pick up a burning stove with liquid fuel inside.

Design Tip: You want your pot to sit at least an inch above your cooking flame (not much more, and not less).  With wood burning stoves, you may want to give enough clearance so you can feed small twigs into the fire without lifting the pan.

Compact Cross Stand

Trangia stoves are compact alcohol burning stoves very similar to drink can stoves (yes you can make these yourself too!). Methylated spirit works well as a fuel. For these stoves, a pot stand really is essential (and we’d also recommend a wind shield for those inevitable British summer days!). In the video below, you’re shown how to make a simple but effective pot stand which will take up no room at all in your pack.


Wire Stand

Inexpensive and again, packs incredibly small. Want a more substantial stand? Use thicker wire! In the video they’re using 2mm stainless steel wire. Struggling to find it online? Try welding wire. Coat hanger wire works too (see the video after).


Coat Hanger Stand


Nut and Bolt Stand

Adapt from the following design. Use a larger tin lid. Make the pot holder as shown, but large enough to sit a drink can burner in between the bolts. You then get a more fuel efficient fire (using the drink can design) and a wider pot stand giving you a more stable pot holder.


Wire Stand with Wind Proof Screen